Amsterdam

Hello!

Amsterdam is a friendly place. The first thing I did when I got off the train was have a broodje haring: herring with pickles, onions and mayonnaise on a bulky roll. It was very tasty. I noticed the cold, too. The wind had a bit more bite in it. I wouldn't be wearing just t-shirts anymore, that's for sure. I also noticed that Amsterdam and Salzburg shared a connection: it was hard to read maps. Salzburg gets a pass because it was after Oktoberfest and all that. Well to avoid any arguments, I guess Amsterdam gets a pass, too. But my point is this: have a good map of the city streets. It will always come in handy. And don't expect you'll get one once you arrive in a city, no sir. For the most part I did. But not in Salzburg or Amsterdam. It doesn't take anything away from those cities, mind you. It just would have helped to have known where I was at certain moments of time.


I came to Amsterdam knowing one thing: sit back and watch the vibe ride by. I walked the city. The canals...the Anne Frank house...Van Gogh...the Red Light District. Dozens of languages and everyone knew how to communicate. Stopping for a slice of pie. A beer in this pub. A coffee in this shop. Walking home at night in cloudy alleys and out-of-reach marketplaces. Watching the busy. The random yelps of desire. Down another sidewalk.

Amsterdam doesn't seem to sleep, so it seems. I know that NY has quite a reputation and some places did start to close up shop around here after 3 am. I know this. But the city itself, its pulse, didn't stop. Chris and I walked around the town, with our hotel room as the ultimate destination, but not the absolute. And what we saw and heard and were probably lucky to walk by without breaking stride, will be remembered well by me.















The view from my hotel room.

I have been drinking a lot of coffee here. There are lots of coffee shops that serve coffee and it seems like people come here to drink coffee. The Dutch serve good coffee, too. They know their coffee and take the time to educate you on various coffee's.

Paris


















Paris. I was intimidated by it, I admit. But this city shocked me. I experienced things I would have never imagined. I'm going to be thinking about this city and its effect on me for quite a while. One thing it did was make me feel fresh, like a slate was swept clean and I feel that I walked out of a haze; a haze I didn't even know was there to a degree. I feel like I should write a bit about Paris and I guess I will. It's just that there was so much more to Paris than where I went, what I did, what I saw and what I ate. Paris is a city that can change people. You have to experience it for yourself. And maybe if you expect something from Paris, the city might not show itself to you in that way. But one thing Paris does, it lets you know it's there. So, yeah, Paris jolted me. And I love this city for it.

There are more pictures of my stay in Paris that aren't being uploaded to this blog. You can see them as a set on flickr. I wanted to include a lot of pictures on this entry to let them speak for me since I am still reflecting on my stay in the City of Lights. I guess I will have to write some more...

I did a lot of walking in Paris. And it was the 1st time during my trip that I wasn't quite prepared. I wasn't wearing my sneakers, I left my water bottle behind and I forgot to pack my raincoat. It rained off and on throughout the evening, my feet got soaked and, ironically, I had no water to drink. But that was all right. I saw a side of Paris that you'd be hard-pressed to see. I was in the right places at the right times.


During my stay in Paris I bought a baguette, cheese, sausage and wine and ate in a park...I feed the pigeons.....gave loose change to a Paris bum....ate a nutella crepe....ate a fromage crepe....watched old men play bocce...rode the Metro...had gelatto...climbed the Arc Du Trimphe....ate at a McDonald's on the Champs de-Elysees....had lunch and dinner on a street cafe on Rue Cler....took a nighttime cruise on the Seine.

I have said this more than once on my trip: I wanted to stay where I was. And Paris was no exception. But it was time to move forward, to experience new places. And that is what this trip has been, and continues to be, with just a few days left: moving forward, with new experiences accompanied with the events of the past.




























Vaison continued...

Good Morning!
I took a few days off from making any entries because Paris just floored me. I'll get into that later. Before I continue with my days in Vaison, here is a picture or two from Munich:


Back to Vaison...
Dinner that night was at Guyonne's home and she invited her sister over, who lives just a few rows down. I asked Guyonne over an apertif if she was a baroness or a countess. She doesn't consider herself a countess because she said that the man she married who was a count did not take this title seriously. You have to feel what is in here and in here, Guyonne said touching her heart and her head. "If it's not in there, then what good is it?" Guyonne was much happier with her second husband and it's easy to tell when she talks about him. Her brother, whom I did not meet, fought for La Resistance during WWII, fighting of small groups of German's in the Vaison region.
Dinner was very good: chicken, ratatouille, wine made in the region, bread and cheese. Guyonne had started a fire in the living room and it took the chill out of the air. We talked for a while about family, history and the town. Guyonne can get fired about topics, like when a church was closed as we explored the ruins. We marched right down to the priest's home to inquire. Nothing came of it, mostly because the secretary there didn't know why the church would be closed (maybe someone overslept), but I think Guyonne felt better after voicing her displeasure.

The next morning we went into the market. At times it was crowded but nothing from what I hear it's like in the summer. That is when you can barely move. Not today:

























For lunch we met up with Evalan and Clarie and stopped at an outdoor cafe and had thinly-sliced meat, uncooked, with a salad, cheese, bread and a carafe of red wine. After it was back to Guyonne's for some coffee and a short rest and then we were invited for dinner at her friends. They have a summer home just outside the town, nestled in the hillside overlooking a valley and the town that resides in it:The view:
































Pate, tomatoes, salad, wine and after dinner bread and cheese. They were surprised that back in the States we eat cheese and crackers before dinner and not after. Eating cheese after dinner is either a way to cleanse the palate before dessert, or depending on the cheese, dessert itself. We had it not only to enjoy but as a means to clear the palate for the gelatto.

French joke about the Belgiums: How can you tell when there's a Belgium at the airport? He's the one trying to feed the airplane.

I get it. I think. Also, it's true: the French love Woody Allen.

Vaison la Romaine

Bonjour!

I am now in Paris and if you haven't guessed, there was no internet access either at Guyonne's or it seemed in the entire town of Vaison. I did ask around but from what I gathered I had to walk 25 minutes to get to a cyber cafe, which was in another town. Anyway, I checked into a hostel here in Paris for just 1 night and I will look around for different accommodations perhaps. I have to get in touch with Duncan, my contact here. Also I need to find a better cyber cafe so I can upload some amazing pictures of Vaison. And what do you know...













The view from my room


Let me start by saying that I arrived in Vaison at 9:30 on Sunday night and Guyonne was waiting for me at the train platform. I was warned that she drives like a bat out of hell and that does not describe the entire truth. The road to Vaison from Orange couldn't be any narrower and the sides drop down into farmland. I was glad when we got to our destination. I wasn't sure what to expect of Guyonne's home but when she said I had my choice of sleeping on the 1st or 3rd floor I knew I would be in a good place.














And let me just say further that her home has always been in the family and it was built in 1801 and it is a mansion! I stayed there for 2 nights and I still didn't get to see every room or climb every staircase. Even her garden was huge and there are Roman ruins in the backyard! Her land was the spot of a Roman hotel. The remaining column still has the carved symbol of a wagon wheel, which was a sign for travelers that they could stop and spend the night.



We get to her home at 10:00 and she served me dinner after a few cocktails. First up was duck pate which she only had one spoonful and told me I must eat the rest--the size of 2 hockey pucks stacked together. Bread, grapes and olives were next as I waited for baked sliced potatoes and green beans. We stayed up until 1 am drinking wine and would have stayed up later but the next day was booked solid.


The next morning for breakfast we had bread with various jams made right in Vaison, grapes, freshly squeezed orange juice and coffee. Then it was out the door to walk around the Roman ruins. In 2 AD the Romans came here and liked it so much that they decided to stay and build. Once a ticket is purchased (Guyonne said I was a cousin so she paid 1/2 price and got in free herself) we had free access to the Roman town, the amphitheater and the museum. Back in the States, there would have been ropes leading you in one direction or another with security stationed strategically. Not here. We could have hopped on columns or picked up ancient stones. It is very lassiez-faire. Some history on the town: Back in 2 AD the Romans built a bridge over the Ouveze River. During WWII, the Germans set out to blow up every bridge. They succeeded except when they came to the Roman bridge. Setting explosives at the base, they detonated it and only one large stone block fell, leaving the rest of the bridge intact and workable. Also, in 1992 there was a flood. The town received the same amount of rain in 4 hours as they normally do in 4 months. Every bridge was damaged and destroyed. Except for the only bridge the Romans built. What an amazing feat of engineering.


Amphitheater:
















Old Roman toilets (which I did not use):















Super Monkey on the other hand...















After we checked out the ruins, we drove to a medieval village, built into a mountain side overlooking a gorge. Brantes was amazing and "is positioned high up on a rocky slope, looking down to the valley of the Toulourenc, a temperamental mountain stream." Here we met Guyonne's friends, Evalan, Michael and their daughter Claire and had lunch overlooking the valley. There was no menu and no one ordered. The first course was individual plates of various pate's and...head cheese!, along with crisp lettuce and ripe tomatoes. Next we had beef that melted in the mouth and the homemade spaghetti was perfect by itself. Along with bread and a bottle of wine it was a great meal. Oh, and cheese and raspberry ice cream to top it off. Speaking of cheese, they eat cheese here after dinner, not before, to cleanse the palate. And we had a very sharp blue cheese called Roquefort, first made in the area long ago when a goat herder wanted to escape the elements, found a cave, and aged the cheese in the moisture of the hillside.

Where we had lunch:















The view from our seats:

The town we explored after lunch:











Okay, it is 3:00 in Paris and I have to go explore! I'm meeting Duncan somewhere for drinks (I'm calling him around 6). There is more to tell about dinner in Vaison and the market we went to yesterday. But Paris is calling and all that! Hope everyone is well and you will hear from me soon (now that I know where a good internet cafe is!).

Bye!

La-Chaux-de-Fonds, Part Deux

Hello!

Friday night was another dinner party here at the Schaub household. Aside from me, guests included Steve and Valerie, Steven and Annmarie, and of course Ann and Roland. We had a traditional Suisse dinner: Raclette. The term means 'to scrape' and here is how it goes: With a Raclette grill placed on the dining room table, I placed a square piece of salted cheese and place it on a paddle. The grill has 2 levels and I put the cheese on the 1st level so it would be heated from above. On the top of the grill we placed bacon. Once the cheese became bubbly and gooey, I took it out from the heat and with a smaller wooden paddle, scraped the cheese onto a boiled potato. With a piece of cooked bacon and a few spices (cumin and black pepper), I was all set to go. For sides there was salad, shaved carrots (which they put salad dressing on) olives, mushrooms and pickles. It was wicked good! Steven is from Scotland and has been living here for at least 10 years. By learning French, he is very interested in how to English language works, so we talked about accents and different phrases used. If anyone goes to England or Scotland, don't use the phrase 'fanny pack'--very bad. For dessert Valerie made Banana's Foster. There was much cheering when the rum was lit in the pan. After dinner drinks of wine and tea with a splash of rum finished the evening. It was wicked fun.

The next morning Ann took me on a walking tour of La-Chaux-de-Fonds. I had a great time learning about the history of the town, the different style of buildings and the presence of Art Nouveau.
My pictures have taken on an unexpected theme: windows. Being that my past book on life is now closed and I am starting anew, I am looking forward to getting pictures framed and this theme is one that I think will be pretty cool.













This town is easy to pass by and Ann said a lot of people think there isn't much to see. But you have to go down the side streets and explore to find the many hidden gems that are just beneath the surface. Ann would open doors to different buildings that she knew were something to see. It felt like trespassing and probably would be considered that back in the States, but not here. Some history: a very famous architect was born here and worked here: Le Corbusier. Many of the impressive buildings he designed and built. Another famous person born here: Louis Joseph Chevrolet. That's right, that very American car company came from a man born right here. Halfway through our tour we stopped at a farmer's market. A section was cordoned off and we found out there was a bomb scare at the nearby post office. But that didn't stop us from sticking around! The chief of police was there, which was a big deal--it seems like he is somewhat of a celebrity here and he was very calm, so everything was under control. Steven and Annmarie were sitting outside having coffee so we joined them before continuing our walking tour.















Around 3:00 we came back home and had lunch (I need to start buying good, thick bread back home and not the pre-sliced stuff) and then Ann, Roland and I were off to the country-side. That's the thing about this town--you can be in the city and then 15 minutes later be in the country. And that is how quickly we found ourselves in Creux du Van, albeit a bit of a longer drive because Ann and Roland wanted to show me the fantastic scenery. We hiked to the top and the day was clear so we could see the Alps in the distance. On the way back we stopped at the mountain farm that has a small restaurant--very typical of mountain-side farms here to offer food, drink and lodging for that extra source of income.





























We got back to the house around 8:00 and had dinner with their 2 boys, John-Michael and Benjamin. The trout was excellent! The boys were drinking a concentrated fruit juice (they added water) so I tried some, coughed a bit, and then decided it wasn't so bad. Tasted like kool-aid. Another night of wine, good company and conversation with a nightcap of Lemoncello and I retired for the night around 1:30.

So this brings me to my last day here. We are just going to chill at the house until my train at 3:00. I get into Orange around 9:30 tonight and Guyonne will pick me up. I'm not sure if she has internet access so it might be awhile before another post!


La Chaux De Fonds and 00ook

Bonsoir!

I arrived at the train station in Salzburg early on Thursday morning. This time I knew my way around, or at least a direct line to the station. What I wasn't sure about was how difficult it would be to buy my ticket at the kiosk. Sure enough, it didn't recognize La Chaux De Fonds as a destination so after some deliberation I found the service counter where I was able to get my ticket for my 8 hour train ride. I slept for most of the first 3 hours, including the 4 other people in the same cabin. Plus this guy, who even after a few days from Munich, still needed time to recover:

Luckily we only had to change trains twice and both those times were close to the end of the trip. Going through the Alps provided some amazing views. One thing I was expecting however was that my passport would get stamped as we entered into each new country. But that is not the case, unfortunately. Apparently Europeans trust each other to travel into different countries without checking tickets or passports. So I would have liked a stamp from Austria, Liechtenstein and Switzerland, but oh well.


I had lunch in the dining car: Frankfurter Wurst--two smoked sausages with a bulky roll and a side of mustard. And I ate it like a native, with 2 hands, the sausage in one, the roll in the other, alternating bites. Add to it a glass of whiskey and I was feeling alright. Then the Yankee fan made a comment about my hat. I told him we'll see him in the playoffs.


I got into La-Chaux around 7:00 and called Ann (whom I had never met before but I have known her sister for a handful of years now). We walked to their beautiful home and I met her husband Roland. A quick shower and change of clothes and we were off to dinner at friends. Good conversation with Americans and Suisse. There was different kinds of cheeses, wine made right in town, grapes grown in the area, vegetables with ranch dip (they go crazy for ranch dip since they can't get it over here--Ann brought it over from the States) and the after-dinner drinks I mentioned earlier. Steve, Jerry, Ann, Roland, Muriel and Miriam talked about all the food they missed (was this a care-package hint?): cheez-it, cheese whiz, Campbell's onion soup, ranch dressing, American tea...



The next morning, 10/2, Ann and I drove 2 hours to the Alps in the Canton (Canton's are regions, kind of like our states) of Bern. We took the tram to the top of the Schilthorn and had lunch at the revolving restaurant Piz Gloria. The views going up were amazing:


















But as we got closer to the top, this is what we started to see:

At the top, there were some breaks in the cloudsAnd here is the Piz Gloria:















Does this look familiar to anyone?





On Her Majesty's Secret Service was filmed here (I had no idea until we arrived). Now, I'm not a huge James Bond fan but I do know quite a bit and I like the films, although some I get confused with others. Ah, George, you only lived once in the world of 007.



Monkey. Super Monkey.

Okay, this is getting outta hand. It's 2:30 am and I need sleep. Let me just say that dinner was wicked good (a phrase I taught our Scottish dinner guest) and a traditional Suisse dinner. More posts about that tomorrow. We are going to walk around town in the morning and go to a farmer's market and possibly head into France so I can ship some cheese home.


Goodnight!


Salzburg

Hello,

After my late night ramblings in Munich (I'll try to add a few more tidbits to the Munich posting) I didn't get out of bed until 10 am. Checkout was at 10:30 so there wasn't much time to do anything let along post another entry before I left.

The train from Munich to Salzburg was at 11:30. Trying to buy a ticket at the kiosk was a bit challenging, especially the question I referes to earlier, 'what is your means of transport'? Umm, how about a train? I asked a service rep. for help but her and I were having a language barrier moment, or 2 or 10, so I went with the first choice. And when I was on the train and the ticket-puncher came by, not a word was said. Must have been the right choice!


When I arrived in Salzburg I was tired. So with a free map from the information center I was on my way by foot to the hostel I planned to stay at in the old part of town, across the river. I read it was only a 20 minute walk. 40 minutes later and going in circles, I still couldn't figure out where I was on the map and the 2 people I asked for help, 1 didn't speak any English and the other said I should get on a bus since I had a long way to go. Getting on a bus didn't sound like a good idea to me---if I was having a hard time with a 'regular' street map I can't imagine the confusion I would have had with a bus schedule. So after that, the first hotel I came to, I checked in.

After a shower and a change of clothes I hit the street. Come to find out I was only a 10 minute walk from where I wanted to be initially. Oh well! Salzburg moves at its own pace---slow. People stroll and the bicyclists, who are everywhere, pedal slow too. Around 3 I stopped at an outdoor cafe and ordered a beer and Wiener Rindsgulash that came with a side of bread. And I did what the people of Salzburg do---I took my time.





After that I walked down to the Salzach river, 'the salt river'. It's not named that because it's salty but because salt from the mines upstream used to be transported through the city. Beyond that was the fortress overlooking the city, which I walked up to later that evening.


There was a funicular to go up to Hohensalzburg Fortress but I elected to walk up. Along the way I met a surgeon from Mongolia, Nikbolt (or at least that is how I heard his name and when I repeated it, he said it was right). He did tell me American names are much simpler than where he is from. Yes, Nikbolt, we are boring when it comes to names. Anyway we walked up to the top of the fortress, getting there around 7:00. There was music by Mozart and the views were fantastic.
A little history: in 1525 an invading army approached Salzburg and the citizens sought refuge in the fortress. But soon they didn't have much food and the invaders knew it. In fact the people of Salzburg had only one cow left. A resident had a novel idea: they paraded the cow along the castle parapet so the army could see. Thinking that by the next day the cow would be butchered and the citizens would have to surrender, the army waiting. But during the night, the Salzburg people painted the cow black and the next morning they paraded the same cow for the army to see. Thinking they had food to last much longer than they were willing to wait, the army turned and left. Since then, the people of Salzburg have been known as 'oxen-washers'--'Stierwascher'.



***I didn't take a picture of the plastic cow near the top.

Walking the streets at night was very relaxing and I bought a couple of Mozartkugel's. They have three layers: a hard, dark chocolate outer crust, a caramel layer within and finally a core of white chocolate. Very tasty. Being tired didn't prevent me from entering a bar, Shamrock's Irish Pub. A few Guinness's later and I retired for the night, knowing I had a long train ride to Switzerland.

10/2, 9:00 am: Okay I have to go since I am ignoring my hosts in La Chaux De Fonds, Switzerland. We went over to Ann and Roland's friends house last night and had dinner. Jerry, an American married to a Swiss like Ann, busted open a few bottles of liquor with homemade labels. One tasted like Sambuka, the other like paint thinner. We had 3 shots of the latter.

Okay, pictures are up so you can check them out on the left hand side at flickr. Gotta go!
10/2 7:00 pm: I added a few things from my journey from the other days. I wanted to make a new entry about La-Chaux-De-Fonds, but company is coming over any moment know so I have to run. I hope that later tonight I can talk about all that has happened here. But if it was anything like last night with the turpentine after-dinner drinks, well, I can't promise.
Au revior!
***It took a half hour this morning to get pictures uploaded (even longer since I had to figure out a French computer and what things meant---was I uploading or deleting?! Eep!---I was uploading). So, more pictures to come---including SM!